The Myth About Pruning Crape Myrtles

A lot of us have seen Crape Myrtles cut back every year until little more than three or four bare trunks remain. Many homeowners were told this was necessary to make the tree bloom. It is not.

Crape Myrtles bloom on new growth, but they do not need to be severely cut back to produce flowers. Repeated heavy pruning damages the natural form of the tree and encourages weak new shoots around the cuts. Over time, the same cuts can also create the large, ugly knots commonly seen on improperly pruned Crape Myrtles.

A Crape Myrtle should be pruned to develop and maintain a good shape, remove weak or damaged branches, eliminate crossing growth, and manage unwanted suckers. Once a healthy canopy and structure have been established, very little pruning may be necessary.

Even the dried seedheads do not have to be removed for the tree to bloom again. They can be left in place unless you prefer a cleaner appearance.

What Proper Crape Myrtle Pruning Should Accomplish

The goal is to work with the tree's natural shape rather than repeatedly cutting the canopy back to the same height.

Pruning may include:

• Removing dead, damaged, or weak branches
• Removing suckers growing from the base
• Removing crossing or crowded branches
• Gradually removing lower branches when developing a tree form
• Correcting growth that interferes with the structure or balance of the canopy
• Light shaping where needed without destroying the tree's natural form

Repeatedly topping the tree is different from selective pruning. Heavy cuts encourage vigorous shoots around the cut points instead of developing strong, naturally spaced branches. This is the practice commonly called "Crape Murder".

For pruning guidance on other trees and shrubs, see our Tree and Shrub Pruning page.

When Should Crape Myrtles Be Pruned?

Late winter into early spring, before new growth begins, is generally the best time to prune Crape Myrtles in Georgia. The tree is dormant, its branch structure is easy to see, and the new season's flowers have not yet developed.

Avoid unnecessary heavy pruning during the growing season. Summer is better suited to removing small unwanted shoots or making minor corrections when needed. Pruning in early fall should also be avoided because it can encourage tender new growth before cold weather.

The amount removed matters just as much as the timing. Taking too much canopy at once forces the tree to replace a large amount of growth and can leave it with weak shoots and an unnatural shape. If extensive corrective work is needed, it may be better to improve the tree gradually rather than trying to reshape it all at once.

Choosing the Right Crape Myrtle Matters

Many pruning problems actually begin when the wrong Crape Myrtle is planted in the wrong place. Crape Myrtles are available in very different mature sizes, from compact shrubs only a few feet tall to large tree forms that can reach 20 feet or more.

Smaller and medium varieties include Crape Myrtles such as Acoma, Hopi, Tonto, and Zuni. These varieties also have good resistance to powdery mildew. Comanche develops into a larger tree and also has strong mildew resistance.

Flower colors range from white and light pink to lavender, fuchsia, red, and deeper pink shades, giving homeowners plenty of choices without having to force a large variety into a small space.

Crape Myrtles prefer sunny locations, and Georgia's climate allows many varieties to grow into substantial trees. A variety that is allowed enough room to reach its mature size can usually keep its natural form with much less corrective pruning.

Training a Young Crape Myrtle

Training is most useful while the tree is young, before poor branch structure has had years to develop. If a tree form is desired, begin by selecting a small number of strong, well spaced main trunks and removing unwanted shoots from the base.

As the tree grows, lower branches can be removed gradually to expose the trunks and establish the height of the canopy. Inside the canopy, remove branches that cross, rub against each other, grow into crowded areas, or interfere with stronger branches.

Then step back and look at the tree before making additional cuts. One side may need a little more growth, an open area may need to fill in, or the tree may already have the shape it needs. Pruning should respond to the individual tree rather than following the same cutting height every year.

Once the basic structure is established, maintenance becomes much simpler. In later years, pruning may consist mostly of removing suckers, dead or damaged growth, occasional crossing branches, and small limbs that interfere with the desired form.

Keep the Natural Shape

One of the best qualities of a mature Crape Myrtle is its natural branching structure and attractive trunks. When the right variety is planted in the right location, there should be no reason to cut the top off every year simply to keep the tree within its space.

If a Crape Myrtle has already developed large knots or dense shoots from years of heavy pruning, The Dreamscapes can evaluate the tree and determine how it should be corrected. Restoring a badly pruned tree may take more than one season, but gradual selective pruning can produce a much better structure than continuing to cut it back to the same points.

We hope these Crape Myrtle pruning tips help keep you from ever being called a "Crape Murderer". The Dreamscapes can take care of your Crape Myrtle and other pruning needs. Call us at 678-574-4008 or schedule a free estimate online to speak with our pruning team.